Another one done, many more to go. If we can help sort your bike out get in touch email@example.com
Very. The quality and safety of a composite repair is reflected in the standard of the facilty and the engineers. Safe and complient carbon repairs require resources and training. It takes 2 years for a repairer at CBR to achieve 2 of the 3 qualification levels available at Carbon Bike Repair. The repair ‘theater’ is sealed and depressurised to prevent contamination during the repair cycle. The repair process passes through 3 QC stages before it is released to the restoration departement. Carbon bikes can be repaired safely if there is a standard by which to measure repairs.
Recently one of our new carbon room ventilation fans burned out. Before we had our new facility with dust extraction systems, heaters and dremels would regularly burn out. We attributed this to the long hours they had to operate. It had not occurred to me that beside Graphene, carbon might also be a conductor of electricity. It was not until the last incident that I decided to check with a continuity tester. To my very surprise it was showing contact between the 2 terminals. Wow I had no idea! I feel a bit stupid as I am supposed to know a fair amount about the material but it never occurred to me..Now I think about it, motor brushes are pure carbon blocks duh..As well there it is.
I’m not sure how this would change anything other then if you were thinking of using your bike to ‘move’ a live wire out of your way, I would think again…
New challenges face CBR in our quest to remain the best even when it is really busy. Safety is our No1 priority. Quality and turnaround follow. Excellent customer service is key to our status in the industry.
If you are unsure what to do in the event of an incident, here are some options available to you. If it is a carbon bike:
1 – Do not ask your local bike shop to assess it unless they are approved carbon bike inspectors. They will not usually take a risk and could advise unnecessary replacement.
2 – If you make a claim, ask the insurer to notify CompleteBikeRecovery to collect, inspect and report on the bike.
3 – You are welcome to contact us directly should you choose not to claim. Just send us an email with in-focus images and a description of the issue.
4 – We inspect carbon and the groupset at the same time. This usually takes 2 days.
5 – The submitted report covers : 1 – The cost of repair (if we are able to warranty) + cosmetic restoration. 2 – A new-for-old complete bike replacement option. 3 – Salvage value.
6 – We are able to inspect alloy frames too.
If you have a scratch or a mark on your carbon bike which you would like a qualified carbon bike inspector to look at then drop us an email or a message and we will inform you of the next steps. There is no reason why you need to worry before riding out this summer. Prices start around £80. Contact us with your inquiry and inspection options. We scan the bike from top to bottom. We can include your groupset condition inspection. If we find any issues you have 2 choices:
1 – Get in touch with your insurer if you want to pass on the claim. You will be required to provide them with our inspection report to qualify the claim.
2 – Get it fixed yourself and know that the bike is in good order. Remember composite bikes are complex machines. Don’t risk it if in doubt.
I was asked to look at what might be delamination in the down tube area during an inspection procedure. At first we could not solve where a creaking sound was coming from because the scanner could not find anything and it sounded similar to de-lamination so we had to find it.
I won’t mention the brand but when we inserted the endoscope we came across some expanding foam in the middle of the downtube cavity which impeded our exploration further. I asked for the downtube to be squeezed while we had the endoscope in position. We discovered that the expansion foam had slightly come away from the carbon wall causing the part to creak when he road it.
It seems some manufacturers have found a temporary solution to rattling internal cables. I say temporary because mid downtube sections are susceptible to flexing during riding which in turn can cause this rather minor de-bond over time. As small as this is it simply drives the rider nuts with irritation and concern. Hope this helps someone!
We don’t often get asked to repair recumbents but this one is a super light disabled version which is clearly an expensive and hard to find bike. The structural damage affected the chasis and the safety nose cone. I am glad to say we were able to complete this as well as hide the repair in the weave.
Glad we could help out on this one.
Firstly there are a few things we need to clear up: Carbon is not abrasive friendly. Bags and cardboard are not abrasive friendly. Simply covering tubes with lagging foam does virtually NOTHING to stop external blunt force from distorting and cracking the frame. The general rule to safely transport a bike in a soft bag/ cardboard requires 2 things:
1- Create a ‘soft’ frame around the bike to avoid contact with the frame itself.
2 – Covering the surfaces with non-abrasive padding to avoid abrasion and additional impacts
Here we go:
1 – Wheels/ seat post/ pedals/ rear mech/ bars from stem cap off.
2 – Unscrew the hanger from the dropout instead of only removing the rear mech. Why? This is exposed to a corner impact and can damage to carbon dropout. The hanger itself does the damage.
3 – Cut lagging (shown in grey) to your frame tube size and ducktape the surface leaving the slit open. Label each one for easy re- fitting.
4 – Fit a dropout protector where required (shown in red). We repair 90% of chain/ seat stays as a result of not having a protector in place.
5 – Unscrew the stem cap and gently roll the bars around the fork until they fit nicely around the headtube and fork blade. Keep trying and eventually you will see how easily they can fit in this position. Don’t over bend the cables. The bars also act a a protection for the fork.
6 – Wrap the rear mech in foam and place the chainring on a sturdy foam base as you lock the frame in. Bottom impacts often bend the teeth. The base must withstand this. Replace after impact has damaged this base.
7 – Once you have stuffed as much of your kit/ helmet etc into spaces, it is time to fit the outer frame (shown in blue). I use ducktape covered polystyrene sections squeezed into the front/ back and top covering from the seat post hole to the stem. If your wheels fit either side of the frame then you do not need to pad the sides.
8 – Lastly DO NOT deflate the tyres completely. If you do the rims get a pounding from impacts. Semi deflated the tyres can also help absorb impacts and act as further padding.
It takes about 20 min to pack and 5 min + to unpack.
Soft or hard boxes? The debate rolls on. I always thought hard boxes were the safest until a cyclist friend, who actually worked as a bag packer at Gatwick, suggested that soft bags/ cardboard were generally treated more carefully while the hard cases often were found at the very bottom of a pile of holiday cases due to their size and handled with a little less care then the softer more vulnerable bags. Don’t test my theory until you read part 2.
Dutch manufacturer Vanmoof for example printed an image of a TV on the box which reduced bike damage by 70-80% so there must be something in it. Unfortunately for some soft bag design there are glowing design errors which I will attempt to help mitigate in part 2.